Semillon (seh-mee-YOHN)
Once the most widely planted variety in the world, known as "Semillon de Saint Emilion" in its homeland of Bordeaux in the mid-18th century, it went on to enjoy remarkable success in vineyards across the globe — from Europe to Australia, and from South Africa (where it was known as "Windruif") to Chile. Today, the majority of its plantings have been replaced by more commercially popular varieties, though it has held on to a few small but celebrated strongholds.
It remains the most important grape in the Sauternes appellation, south of Bordeaux, famous for its timeless dessert wines of the same name. In Australia, north of Sydney in the Hunter Valley, it produces dry wines of a crisper structure with significant ageing potential. In South Africa's Western Cape, it is still considered a variety inseparable from the region's viticultural heritage, even if it now accounts for just 1% of plantings — down from over 90% in the 1820s.
Semillon is considered relatively easy to grow, fairly disease-resistant and productive. Its thin skin makes it susceptible to the Botrytis fungus — an essential characteristic for the great wines of Sauternes — but also sensitive to excessive sun exposure. It ripens early, and in very warm terroirs takes on a golden, almost pink hue.
Semillon wines are typically characterised by a rich structure, with relatively low acidity and a full body and alcohol. These qualities are balanced by the crisper, fresher structure of Sauvignon Blanc in the famous sweet blend of Sauternes. A typical young wine from the variety shows good intensity of citrus and floral aromas. With age, notes of exotic fruit, honey and nuts begin to emerge, and it responds well to oak ageing.
Although it is often encountered as a single-varietal wine, Semillon in its homeland of Bordeaux is usually blended with the white varieties Muscadelle (reminiscent of Muscat, though unrelated) and Sauvignon Blanc.
Enjoyable on its own, Semillon in its fresher, lighter expressions pairs well with oily fish, shellfish and goat's cheese, while in its richer, more mature — or sweet — forms it can accompany salty blue cheeses such as Roquefort, and foie gras.