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Viognier (vee-oh-NYAY)

Viognier (vee-oh-NYAY)

Viognier is believed to have ancient origins, starting in Croatia and arriving in the Rhône Valley of France by way of the Romans. Although it was once widely planted in the Northern Rhône, by 1965 it had nearly disappeared, with records suggesting as little as 3.2 hectares remaining in the region.

As the wine's popularity and price rose, plantings followed. The Rhône now has around 120 hectares of Viognier, and the variety can be found across the globe — from the US (Virginia, California) and Australia, to Greece, Japan, New Zealand and South Africa.

Viognier favours warmer climates and long growing seasons, though it can also be grown in cooler conditions. In France, the Mistral — a strong north-westerly wind — has a notable effect on Viognier vineyards in the Northern Rhône, cooling the vines during the heat of the Mediterranean summer.

The variety produces small, inconsistent yields, and must be harvested only at full ripeness. Picking too early results in underdeveloped aromas and flavour, while picking too late produces a flabby, low-acid wine. At full maturity, the grapes take on a deep yellow colour and yield wines with intense aromas, high alcohol and moderate acidity at most. Viognier wines are known for their floral and fruity character, as well as an herbal and spicy quality derived from terpenes — aromatic compounds also common in Muscat and Riesling.

Although older vines can produce wines with some ageing potential, Viognier is generally best enjoyed young. The variety is the sole grape behind the celebrated white wine of Condrieu, in the Northern Rhône, and is also worth noting as a small but traditional blending component — around 10% — alongside Syrah in the renowned Côte-Rôtie, a short distance to the north.

The aromatic complexity and lush texture of Viognier wines pair well with mildly spiced dishes from Thai and other Asian cuisines.

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